The Champagne Boutique

Are Blanc de Blancs the Real McCoy?

In Events on May 3, 2010 at 12:19 pm

Can you believe that 15 years ago Blanc de Blancs Champagne was the next big thing?

Do you need proof? Easy…!

Krug Clos du Mesnil, Salon, Dom Ruinart are amongst those 100% Chardonnay champagne which are thought to be some of the most refined champagnes.

But what do the “champenois” think about this?

There are two schools really. The “No To” led by Jacques Peters Chef de Caves at Veuve Clicquot thinks that it is a betrayal of Champagne but the other group, let’s call it “Yes We Can” led by Ruinart think Blanc de Blancs champagnes are real ambassadors to the Terroir.

So what do we think at Aperitif Dinatoire.

One and a half years ago we sat with Matthieu Longuere MS and tasted the range of De Sousa in a private room of a luxury hotel in London. Based in the Grand Cru Village of Avize, Erick de Sousa is part of the absolute Elite of Champagne makers and while we tasted three products of his range it is the Blanc de Blancs Reserve Grand Cru which has been favoured by all of us, especially Matthieu. The reason was simple, firstly the colour is very intense, which gives an indication of depth for a champagne; secondly the bouquet, which was very complex with aromas of nuts, cinnamon and orange peel; finally the palate is all in roundness and amazing aromas of ripe citrus and vanilla…it was a great moment.

(Erick De Sousa with Andreas Laarson, Best Sommelier of the World)

In blind tasting a Blanc de Blancs will always stand above the rest as very deep champagne with lots of personality.

It is so complex that sometimes you can be astonished by its minerality. Take Jacques Lassaigne by example, he does a Blanc de Blancs so mineral and refreshing that you would drink it as water, just if you are thirsty. Soutiran (A house we will import this month) does a 100% Chardonnay from the grand cru villages of Ambonnay and Bouzy which is bursting with freshness and citrus.

Then there are the Masters of Chardonnay which are Salon, Andre Jacquart and Eric Rodez.

(Eric Rodez Champagne at a Swarovski Crystals event)

Let me take a few lines to talk about Rodez. This grower based in Ambonnay has given a new twist to his grand cru village.

He took over the family estate in 1982 and changed the whole idea of wine making by introducing new methods of oak ageing that he learnt while working in Burgundy and mastering new blending style that he discovered at Krug.

Today his Blanc de Blancs is known by many as the Montrachet of Champagne and worth the try with its deep flavours very round palate and breath taking length.

Very soon you will have the chance to try this champagne when we add it to our growing champagne selection.

If you have to drink champagne we believe that Blanc de Blancs are the ones to choose first as you will discover new tastes and experience every time.


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